Horseradish: a root with countless properties

As Carnival approaches, the small Lucanian villages prepare to welcome curious carnival costumes (the horned masks of Aliano, the cows and bulls of Tricarico, the bells of San Mauro Forte, and the Rumit of Satriano, to name a few). Meanwhile, the pungent aroma of a spice, whose use dates back to a rather distant era, spreads through the streets. We are talking about horseradish – also known as cren or barbaforte – an herbaceous plant belonging to the Brassicaceae or Cruciferae family and native toSoutheastern Europe andWestern Asia.

A bit of history

From the ancient world, few sources have reached us that attest to the use of horseradish.In Greek and Roman times , it was believed that the root had powerful aphrodisiaceffects. Ovid, in his Ars amatoria – composed between the 1st century BC and the 1st century AD – recommends the use of plant-based erotic filters made from horseradish. Furthermore, a description of the root and its benefits is found in the natural history encyclopedia written by Pliny the Elder, known as Naturalis Historia (1st century AD). In particular, the following properties are mentioned: stimulating appetite and digestion, treating pain and inflammation, expectorant and purifying action.

The earliest certain evidence of the use of horseradish dates back to the Middle Ages when it spread in the pharmacies of monasteries as a phytotherapeutic remedy.For example, Saint Hildegard – a German herbalist of the 12th century – recommends decoctions made from horseradish to counteract medical disorders. In an era rich in superstitions and characterized by the emergence of alchemy (which some scholars consider a precursor to modern chemistry), the belief also spread that horseradish, due to its particular aroma, had magical properties, if not even diabolical powers.

Composition and properties of horseradish

Horseradish is rich in bioactive components, including glucosinolates and their derivatives, and isothiocyanates that give the root its flavor and characteristic pungent odor.From a nutritional standpoint, horseradish has a low caloric content and is a significant source of vitamins (B1 and C), minerals, and polyphenols, which make it a food with countless beneficial effects. The list of its properties is quite long: horseradish has indeed been associated with digestive, anti-anemic, anti-catarrhal, anti-rheumatic, anti-scurvy, expectorant, calming, purifying, diuretic, eupeptic, revulsive, rubefacient, sialagogue, stimulating, and stomachic properties.

Horseradish in Lucanian cuisine

In addition to being a medicinal plant, horseradish has enjoyed great fame for centuries as an excellent flavoring to enhance food. A spicy and appetizing sauce made from horseradish – known as cren – is common in Slavic and German cuisine, as well as in England and Eastern European countries. In Italy, however, it is found almost exclusively in Trentino-Alto Adige and the Verona area, as well as in some regions of Southern Italy. Horseradish is indeed one of the traditional gastronomic ingredients of the so-called cucina povera, which is the typical cuisine of Southern Italy that forms a basis of the recognized Mediterranean diet.

According to tradition, horseradish spread in the south during the Norman period.Specifically, the climatic characteristics of much of the Lucanian territory and the presence of numerous watercourses make the areas of Lagonegrese, the Val d’Agri , and the Vulture particularly suitable for the cultivation of horseradish (not surprisingly, one of the etymological hypotheses of the term suggests that the word "horseradish" means precisely "sea radish"). On theLucanian Apennines, however, the root grows spontaneously from January to March, which is why it is often present on our tables during the Carnival.

The whole root of horseradish is almost completely odorless, but once cut, or even better grated, it emits a very pungent essence. The presence of sulfides makes the volatile oil released by horseradish quite irritating to the eyes and nasal mucous membranes.

Even today, the root is grated over pasta with tomato sauce, but also over pasta and legumes; some chefs even use it to season grilled fish. A traditional Lucanian recipe based on horseradish, typical of this period, is the rafanata, a type of omelet (with potatoes, pecorino cheese, and optionally with pieces of sausage). The dish is often served with crumbled crispy peppers and accompanied by a robust and characterful wine like Aglianico del Vulture.

Are you curious to taste this specialty? Come to Sudrise to discover the unmistakable flavor of Montemurro horseradish!

Rafanata, a typical dish from Basilicata during Carnival

Did you know that…

In the famous novel Christ Stopped at Eboli by Carlo Levi, we find interesting references to the Lucanian carnival. During his confinement in Aliano, the writer comes into contact with the culture and peasant tradition of Lucania, providing us with a brilliant anthropological account. Levi describes in detail the famous horned masks of Aliano, outlining not only their folkloric characteristics but also the profound symbolic meaning related to local identity.

Traditionally, the mask is a tool that allows the individual – even if only for a short time – to conceal their everyday identity, enabling them to play a role that goes beyond traditional social conventions.

The masks of the Alianese carnival – made of wood and papier-mâché – thus become a metaphor for the harshness and resilience of rural and peasant life. The game of disguise is a form of liberation through which the individual overturns social hierarchies to resist an oppressive reality: that of peasant life in Southern Italy marked by suffering, misery, and alienation.

In a carnival atmosphere of euphoria and fun, local good food cannot be missed.Among the typical Lucanian dishes of this period, Levi mentions horseradish, traditionally nicknamed the "truffle of the poor" due to its prevalence in peasant cuisine. Thanks to its high energy content, horseradish was abundantly consumed by farmers who needed strength and energy to complete long and exhausting workdays. Thus, horseradish also becomes a symbol of rural life and the resilience of the southern peasant population, which, despite difficulties, clings to the land and the products it offers.

The "horned" masks of Aliano - Source: Basilicata Turistica